第445章 火车一餐(2 / 2)

  张汉卿很和气地让他坐下,列车长便扭着腰斜跨坐在张汉卿对面的椅子边。旁边人往里挤了挤,他也最终没有往里挪那么一点。

  “不是刚才那位服务员的事,我想知道,为什么在京奉线上不卖中餐?”虽然奉天省改名为辽宁省已经年余,但是大家有时还是习惯把辽宁叫奉天,一些传统名称也没能及时更新,像京奉线极少人改称京沈线,沈阳城包括老沈阳都还是叫做奉天城等。

  原来是这事!列车长轻吁了口气。他不无难色地说:“少帅,您有所不知,火车上供应大菜,不只京奉线上一家。据我所知,我国铁路线上,火车基本都是只供应大菜的。”

  “大菜”就是西餐。1924年周作人坐火车从北京到济南,他写道:“火车里吃的是大菜”。

  翻看民国铁路餐车,大都是西餐,如三文鱼、沙丁鱼、牛扒、猪排、咖喱鸡饭、番茄鸡丝饭等等;酒水也是西式的,如威士忌、白兰地、啤酒、苏打水、柠檬汁等。张恨水的小说《沪平通车》里,主人公胡子云在火车上偶遇一位独行美女,对其大献殷勤,请人家到餐车吃饭。结果拿过菜单来,一个字都不认识,大煞风景。

  张汉卿奇怪了,“哦,为何?”

  列车长说:“中餐口味多多,南来北往的客人往往众口难调;大餐制作相对方便,也比较卫生。”他漏说一句话,那就是张汉卿所在的车厢里,本来是没资格吃西餐的,因为他在三等车。

  对于三等车乘客来说,西餐中餐跟他们关系都不大。因为民国铁路有规定,三等车乘客不能进餐车,而且餐车里的饭很贵,就算能去他们也大都吃不起。三等车乘客的火车食物大多是自带干粮,或者向沿途各站小贩购买。

  小贩是民国铁路线上的一个独特风景。著名作家柯灵写道,每当火车停站时,“小贩紧抓住这短促的机会,托起木盘,扬起喉咙,反复高喊夸耀食品的警句,殷勤向旅客兜售,让他们在寂寞的旅途中间,尝一点异乡风味,同时听一点异乡的叫卖声。”在作家的笔下,小贩已经成了漫漫旅途中不可缺少的人文景观。

  早期的火车站月台没有栅栏,小贩可以自由进入月台兜售食品。周作人回忆1906年坐火车:“在车窗口买到许多东西乱吃,如一个铜子一个梨,十五个铜子一只烧鸡之类。后来在什么站买到兔肉,同学有人说这其实是猫肉,大家便觉得恶心不能再吃,都摔到窗外去了。”可见,找小贩买吃的固然方便,食品安全与卫生却很难保证。

  但也不能因噎废食吧?张汉卿摇摇头,他指着车厢内正在啃窝窝头就咸菜的闯关东们说:“西餐不但价格过贵、贫苦者无力享受。”又摆动刀叉说:“而且食口用具多属欧化,并非我国一般人民之所素习,将来火车上,还是以配置中餐为宜。”

  中国饮食世界驰名,光大众熟悉的便有八大菜系,更别说家传密技、各地风味小吃,掺杂着民俗民情。光是吃,就是了解中华文化的一部分,何其多姿多彩?一部《舌尖上的中国》,风靡了全球,哪里轮得到西餐在这里大扬其道?

  列车长咂了咂舌头,心想:“这么大的事情,我这个列车长也没权力决定啊,这不是为难我吗。”不过京奉线现在实质已经在奉军手里,他这个列车长自然不敢反驳,只有先答应下来再说吧。

  张汉卿似是看出他的想法,微微一笑说:“当然,这个事已经出了你的权限”,告诉身边的朱光沐:“记下来,回奉后和常主任讨论下,让他和交通部通个气、拟定个办法来。”

  常主任就是东北交通委员会主任常荫槐,他出面和交通部协商,那就是代表奉系的意思。以现在奉系的影响力,这个事根本就不是事。

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